So you just got the new iRiver clix and you cannot wait to crack this mass of electronics open… The task is a bit easier than it may look. All you will need is a Swiss Army knife, small Phillips and flat head screw drivers and a little bit of patience and you will be staring at your micro components in no time.
Wedge a thin knife down one side of the back plate. It doesn’t matter which, they are both the same. The plastic is flexible and will bow out when you stick the knife down the crack.
The back will not pop off with one pry of the knife- you will have to slide the knife and pry gently at several different areas along that one side like a paint can.
You can also slide a piece of paper behind the knife so that you do not mark up the plastic.
Remove the 4 newly exposed screws under the back plate.
The white casing will pull right off but has to get around the dock connector and the headphone jack. First, pry the plastic away from the dock connector and pull up just a little bit.
Pull up on the opposite side of the headphone jack. Once you are at about a thirty degree angle pull away from the headphone jack.
Stop and admire the underlying clicking mechanisms and how they work.
Remove four more screws.
Unstick tape by the headphone jack.
There is a connector that bridges the screen to the main board. You will have to pry it off with a flat head screw driver. When prying, pry from the main board gently.
You can continue on and get into the LCD, but you run the risk of getting dust underneath it.
Here are photos of both the U10 and the clix. As you can see the only main difference is that the clix uses a faster updated processor, which is very obvious when comparing the smoothness of the user interfaces.
Look at the clix board, not the writing at the top that says “U10 2GB” that is dated January 2006. It may be that the 2GB U10s are identical to the clix. If this is the case the 2GB U10 could be updated with the latest clix firmware. This has not been confirmed- it is merely speculation.