SanDisk Sansa Fuze Disassembly

sansa fuze disassembled main SanDisk Sansa Fuze Disassembly

Here is a teardown of SanDisk’s latest. The disassembly was straight forward being that the housing was held together by plastic clips on each side. Once inside, the removal of the LCD is just a matter of releasing it from a set of clips.

This may not be something you want to do for fun since it may not go back together as tight as it once was. So I would urge you to only use this guide as a repair reference if you are going to take the Fuze apart. Otherwise please enjoy this journey into the depths of the Sansa Fuze’s internals.

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Step 1: Pry open and pop the clips. Please note that the bottom two clips are held in with a little bit of rubbery glue. Don’t rip the face off too quick since there is a ribbon cable you need to disconnect.

Step 2: Remove ribbon cable from face plate. Lift the face off and flip the brown ribbon release flap on the connection.

Step 3: Remove two screws from PBC.

Step 4: Remove LCD by releasing the 4 clips on each side.

Step 5: Remove LSC ribbon cable.

Step 6: Remove battery. Battery is double stick tapped to the back plate. Just pry under it and it will pop out.

Step 7: Remove PBC by lifting on the left side first as to work around the on off switch.




53 Comments

yuki on March 28, 2008 2:50 PM

so i looks like the codec is on chip ?! is the SOC made by sandisk ? i didn’t know they had a facility that could mask an arm processor..

cpchan on March 28, 2008 7:02 PM

No, the SoC is most likely AMS. Sandisk have switched from PortalPlayer to the new AMS SoC recently (for example, the various v2′s, the Clip, etc).Charles

chrisjs162216 on March 29, 2008 11:58 AM

Shouldn’t PBC be PCB in step 7?

G on March 29, 2008 8:37 PM

SOC? SoC?

kugel. on March 29, 2008 11:52 PM

System on a Chip, which means that all parts (except the memory) are in one chip.My question: What about the battery? I can’t see it on the pics, can it be replaced or is it kinda special?

weedkiller on March 31, 2008 7:25 AM

I am also interested by more detailled photos of the battery. Or if you know its capacity.

bobbyflare on May 22, 2008 3:54 PM

Awesome view! I only see mine from the outside. I just got it from http://www.shopsansa.com with a code and I couldn’t be happier with this player. I think the design is exceptional.

bobbyflare on May 22, 2008 3:55 PM

Awesome view! I only see mine from the outside. I just got it from http://www.shopsansa.com with a code and I couldn’t be happier with this player. I think the design is exceptional.

doug on June 5, 2008 12:38 PM

What was used to pry/pop it open ?

Vito on June 12, 2008 10:26 AM

Hi the screen on my sons fuze cracked in several places. Where do I get parts??? I’ve tried Sandisk support and they tell me they don’t offer replacement parts for there product. I have a 8gig fuze.

james on June 17, 2008 10:15 AM

how much are your sansa sandisk battery charger

Ron on August 13, 2008 12:02 PM

What is the trick on getting the ribbon cables back in place?I’ve got 1 unit with a broken screen (stupid washing machine) and another with a broken wheel. I want to do a parts swap.

DJGeorgeT on December 7, 2008 7:56 PM

Hello, wondered if you could take a picture of the battery. I wonder if it is the same as the battery used for the e200 series. Thanks!

allangh on December 8, 2008 3:14 PM

The batteries are NOT the same. The Fuze uses a Lithium Polymer battery instead of the Lithium Ion battery used by the e-series players.Do not buy a battery from Radio Shack, as it will only be the wrong one.

abc on January 13, 2009 5:12 AM

What bull shit !It seems as sansa is your advertising revenue sources your promoting their shitty productsSansa Fuze is bad :1. looks like a cheap copy of IPOD2.useless supplied headphones3.ver low grade flash memeory usedNo wonder my sandisk usb drives die within monthssony and creative better any day !

dghshas on January 20, 2009 11:01 PM

Off topic, but does anyone know if they sell replacement housing for the fuze.Thanks in advance

Rob on February 19, 2009 12:54 AM

abc on 1/13 sounds quite bitter! I’m guessing he’s trying to justify to himself why he paid so much more for an iPod. i’ve had a Fuze for about 7 months now and love it! Everyone I know that has used these feel they are much better than the iPod, especially when you consider the cost.

wes on February 19, 2009 4:08 PM

any suggestions on putting the ribbon cables back in easier.

Fernboy on February 24, 2009 2:33 PM

It would be great if we had a zoomed-in pic of the battery, to see the specs for the lipo battery (and then, possibly find out where to get a replacement one xD)

kahrytan on February 28, 2009 2:48 PM

I’m with wes, Anyone know how to get ribbon back in correctly?I got patience but it doesnt seem to want to go in.

will on March 17, 2009 8:44 PM

I DON’T have one of these.It LOOKS like the ribbon cable plug is two pieces. You would have to push the (1) one piece down onto the other (2). THEN insert the cable.Then HOLDING the cable in place, pull (1) back out..

darkham on April 20, 2009 10:27 PM

can you post a bigger picture of the battery? i’m curious to look the connections.

Ignacio Alcocer on May 8, 2009 4:20 PM

On my battery I found the next readings:+ BAK 374237P. 8JJH8F26| 3.7V 550 mAhHope it can be useful for those asking for a bigger picture so they can see the specs on it.Does somebody know where can I get a replacement LCD screen to replace my broken one. Mine it’s a Sansa Fuze 2GB. Thank & good luck.

SHELEAH HARRIS on May 25, 2009 6:51 PM

How do I pry the top of it open? Only the bottom and one side will open.

logan on July 2, 2009 11:16 AM

hey got the fuze taken apart but how do u put the faceplate ribbon back in place i got it but not working all the way

Manawyddan on July 7, 2009 6:20 PM

How does one remove the wheel? My wheel seems to be stuck from whatever grime gets in it from working outside in construction zones and it appears that you did not remove your wheel in the disassembly process. Is that because this tutorial is mostly for battery/screen replacement, or is it because the wheel cannot be removed without breaking it?

David on July 9, 2009 1:54 PM

Anybody have the part number for the display or any ideas on where to purchase one? Seems like a waste to ebay my busted fuse, I’ve barely used it but apparently I cracked the display somehow. =*( Guess I’ll have to crack mine open to find it.

Rich D on July 14, 2009 12:20 PM

For all those looking for replacement parts.. I just got a brand new one from amazon for less than $40. Replacement of the whole shebang might be easier and cheaper than trying to locate spare parts.

mikew on July 21, 2009 2:49 PM

my battery is going down fast,what can i do about it?

Brian on July 23, 2009 8:31 PM

I think i will just return my with a dead battery, so my son can ensure a new fuze with clear and clean screen.

Mary on July 23, 2009 9:22 PM

If your rotator wheel is stuck don’t take it apart like I did. Just put some WD40 around the wheel and wipe it good. The wheel turns easily now. Does anyone have a suggestion on how to get the ribbon cable back on so the player can work properly?

madgrace on July 31, 2009 2:08 AM

On my Sansa Express, I got the ribbon cable in by lifting the black flap, and then holding the ribbon cable in place with a screwdriver, while I pressed the black flap down on it. It took me a few tries, so anyone trying this– be patient.Thanks for the disassembly pics.Good luck!!!

shawn on August 31, 2009 9:04 PM

i had a problem getting the cover ribbon back on. The little black flap has to be open and wiggle it back in then shut the flap. note the black flap is opposite the side the ribbon gos in

aarons510 on October 14, 2009 9:22 AM

“Step 2: Remove ribbon cable from face plate. Lift the face off and flip the brown ribbon release flap on the connection.”Removing the ribbon cable from the face plate is exactly WRONG! Fortunately I looked at the large version of images 5 and 6 before trying very hard to do so. Obviously, one needs to remove the ribbon cable from the logic board, leaving it attached to the face plate. And what does “flip the brown ribbon release flap on the connection” mean? I don’t see any brown flap anywhere and what connection is being referred to? The white one on the logic board? If so, it should be stated.These instructions need to be rewritten.(I managed to get the cable out of the white connector by jiggling it in the right direction. I hope I didn’t damage anything in the process.)

aarons510 on October 14, 2009 9:28 AM

shawn wrote: “The little black flap has to be open and wiggle it back in then shut the flap.”Which way is “open”? Does one move the black tab towards the screen or away from the board? (And presumably “it” refers to the cable, not the flap.)Please write more precisely, folks!

aarons510 on October 15, 2009 11:24 AM

I’m guessing that the flap has to be lifted away from the board to enable the ribbon cable to be slid in. But I’ve tried it both ways and have had absolutely no luck. It seems that I’d have to pay a jeweler to do it for me, which would probably cost me as much as the thing is worth.Can anybody who has succeeded in getting the ribbon back in please describe exactly how you did it. Did you tape or clamp the device onto a stable surface so that you could use both hands? Did you then use a tweezers on the cable?Help!

aarons510 on October 15, 2009 11:36 AM

madgrace on July 31, 2009 2:08 AM:”On my Sansa Express, I got the ribbon cable in by lifting the black flap, and then holding the ribbon cable in place with a screwdriver, while I pressed the black flap down on it. It took me a few tries, so anyone trying this– be patient.”Presuming the Express is like the Fuze in this particular, at least, please explain what you mean by “holding the ribbon cable in place”. If you mean ‘in place inside the white connector’, how do you get it _into_ the connector? That’s what I can’t figure out how to do. Or maybe you mean something else?

aarons510 on October 16, 2009 9:50 AM

It should be noted that the logic board (PCB) shown here is the version 1 board. The version 2 board doesn’t have that big black square chip on the front.

aarons510 on October 16, 2009 10:10 AM

To answer my own question and more:The black flaps on both ribbon cable connectors (including the one for the LCD cable) are open, i.e., allow the cable to slide in and out, when the edge of the flap is lifted away from the PCB. In both cases the edge of the flap that needs to be lifted is toward the top edge of the device.I verified that the ribbon cable from the front panel can be slid into its connector and locked with the black tab. But I did this by removing the control assembly that contains the ribbon from an extra front panel I had (one with a scratched-up screen). It still seems beyond me to get that ribbon into the connector while the ribbon is attached to the front panel, but some people have obviously done it, so I’m going to work on it.

Alan on November 7, 2009 8:08 AM

I’ve seen some replacement batteries on ebay.

Matt on November 12, 2009 1:01 PM

Does anyone know how to fix the white screen of death by opening up the fuze?

Casey on February 13, 2010 7:25 AM

I have a sansa fuze and none of the controls work. Any suggestions?

Nathaniel on February 14, 2010 7:12 PM

where can i get better batteries for the sansa

Tommy on February 17, 2010 7:46 PM

Try soft booting by pushing the on button up and holding 15-20 seconds till it reboots. Worked for me.

Hirudin on March 5, 2010 11:16 PM

Phew! Got my Fuze back together! Like a lot of people I had a lot of trouble getting the face plate ribbon back into its connector. Here’s what I did that seemed to make it work…First a lil’ terminology to make things easier…”Tab” – a dark (black or brown) flap that is on the top edge of the connector. It has two positions: Closed and Open”Closed” – the position the tab is in when it comes from SanDisk. The tab is parallel, or flat, or flush with the circuit board. You -push- on the tab to close it.”Open” – Opposite of closed. You should have -opened- the tab to get the ribbon out in the first place. You -pull- the tab to open it.Obviously, open the tab first.Then put ribbon as close as you can to the opening of the connector.Position the face plate flat and as close to the bottom half of the player as possible. Obviously, don’t snap it back on yet.Now, use something thin* to try to get the ribbon to be straight in line with the opening of the connector. This will probably take a few tries. The ribbon will catch on all edges of the connector so you have to make sure it’s perfectly lined up. Make sure it isn’t caught on the bottom edge of the connector. You’ll probably have to move the cable up, down, left, and right to get it to the right spot.* I used some bamboo tweezers.Like I said, after a few tries I finally got the ribbon lined up. The pressure created by the bend of the ribbon gave it enough force to make it slide into the connector. I did not put ANY lateral force on the ribbon, once it was lined up it popped in.Now, carefully, lift up the face plate and close the tab.Keep your fingers out of the player and turn it on to make sure the wheel works. If it does, snap the player back together.Good luck!

Robby moon on March 16, 2010 12:40 PM

the comment left by abc is bulls*$# i have had the fuze for nerly 1&1/2 years the headphones are good and i have475 songs 18 recordings and 1309 photos and ther is steel 11301mb left

Mark H. on March 21, 2010 1:59 AM

The chip labeled SDTNLLBHSM-4096 is obviously a 4GB memory chip. It is the same 48-pin type used in most USB flash drives. I have a 32GB flash drive with two Intel 16GB chips (29F16B08JAMDB) of the same design. Could I replace the chip in the Fuze with one of these 16GB chips, and create a Fuze with 16GB of internal memory?

jc on March 30, 2010 12:55 PM

Mark H., you’d need the chipset spec sheet to see if it can address 16GB. I would assume not since they don’t offer a 16GB model, and even if they were 8GB chips you might not be able to get them mounted/stable on such a tiny PCB or do you have experience doing that professionally?Generally I would suggest it is not worth the bother, just plop a 8GB microSDHC card in if you want more memory… such little inexpensive, essentially disposable players are best kept that way, with less investment in time or internal memory and a reusable memory card you can remove when it dies from shock or water, or obsolescence, etc.

John on April 3, 2010 9:56 PM

Does anyone know where I can get the part that holds the earphone plug in??

AJ on April 24, 2010 7:54 PM

I accidentally put 12 volts DC to the audio output on my fuse trying to test a surround sound sub. Everything still works properly accept the only sound that comes is consistant with a dull heart beat. Is it worth trying to repair?

anonym on May 2, 2010 4:31 PM

now I don’t have to worry anymore about Rockbox on the Fuze v2. My clickwheel is dead after taking it apart and putting it back together, and yes: The ribbon cable is all the way in.And I just wanted to clean the screen from dust :-( @ALL: DON’T DO THIS! YOU WILL SCREW YOUR PLAYER.

sucker on May 18, 2010 4:18 PM

I have the same problem with the wheel.The wheel worked fine before disassembly and after the turning of the wheel did nothing and the buttons were hard to press.Fter a few disassemblies trying to fix it the wheel is now completely without function.So I’m buying a new one and will never attempt to fix anything on it ever again.

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