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  #41  
Old 01-19-2008, 04:02 PM
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I just noticed the "military spec 26-AWG twisted silver-coated copper wire"... where on earth does any military organization use silver wire for anything? I thought only "audiophiles" fell for that BS...
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  #42  
Old 01-19-2008, 05:11 PM
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Originally Posted by dfkt View Post
I just noticed the "military spec 26-AWG twisted silver-coated copper wire"... where on earth does any military organization use silver wire for anything? I thought only "audiophiles" fell for that BS...
I could tell you... But then I'd have to kill you.
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  #43  
Old 01-19-2008, 05:22 PM
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Oh, I forgot, Honeywell and Lockheed offer that as standard issue military grade nowadays. Keeps the cash flow in balance...
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  #44  
Old 01-20-2008, 08:18 PM
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I learned long ago not to question the "why" of the "Head-Fi". As long as they're happy, I can't blame them for using the placebo effect to their advantage...

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I don't see what that has to do with the MylarOnes, but we already started building a FAQ forum: http://www.anythingbutipod.com/forum...play.php?f=155 - every helping hand is welcome.
Interesting. I'll go see how I can help.
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  #45  
Old 01-20-2008, 10:40 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dfkt View Post
I just noticed the "military spec 26-AWG twisted silver-coated copper wire"... where on earth does any military organization use silver wire for anything? I thought only "audiophiles" fell for that BS...
Must be the same wire used in the Iraqis' WMD

Seriously though, I always think that all those claims about silver or gold headphone cable giving better SQ is pretty much BS. The difference b/w those and normal pure copper wire are so small than even a little static from the source will throw them off (that is, if you can actually hear it in the first place). It isn't a placebo effect, more like a bling-bling effect for showing off IMO.
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  #46  
Old 01-21-2008, 04:57 AM
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ClieOS, I agree 100%. I even bought a $72 silver cable once, just to check if there's something to it. From the manufacturer's site:

Quote:
A quality HiFi interconnect cable using our own Silvercab cable brand. Made from pure solid core silver conductors and the special winding method of the Silvercab cable ensure a low capacitance and inductancy. The silver ensures a super fast signal transistion and ultra low resistance in comparison with copper.
These characteristics of the Silvercab cable ensure a pure audiophile experience when using this cable for you HiFi interconnects.
All of the above is total nonsense. There is absolutely no audible or measurable difference whatsoever, compared to my DIY cables (made from studio-standard Cordial or Klotz copper microphone cable, with Neutrik connectors). How can people believe these outrageous claims by shady manufacturers and shell out their money for voodoo, snake oil, and hot air?

It's the same as Rolex vs. Casio - both show the time equally well, but the one costs a lot more and supposedly has more prestige...

Here's an extremely good article about all this mumbo jumbo: http://sound.westhost.com/cables.htm
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  #47  
Old 01-21-2008, 06:33 AM
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I once read an article which points out that the current high price of 'audiophile' grade silver cable is basically the result of marketing from cable manufacturer to audiophile. Before all these nonsense, the price of pure interconnecting silver cable was actually at its all time low. Now that's good marketing!
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  #48  
Old 01-21-2008, 09:18 AM
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That overkill Crossroads looks great though. I've got (rather cheap) 0,75mm cables on my Koss KSC50, personally I like to think the SQ has improved (to me it has, but it might be a placebo), at least it looks cool to me (if I wouldn't have done such a bad job anyway ). But they are a bit more uncomfortable than usual, because of the stiffness of the cable (the original ones got stiffer over time too though) and the weight.

Can you recable any CrossRoads model? I think that would be great news for people that have to import them, since they can repair them themselves then. Guess I would take something a bit thicker than ordinary though, just to be sure the cable is not holding the phones back.
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  #49  
Old 01-21-2008, 09:55 AM
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Yes, all MylarOnes (old and new) are very easy to crack open, due to the pretty weak glue they used.

FWIW, all regular earbud- and canalphone cables I cut in half had more or less the same wire diameter inside, even if the total diameter varied a lot. No matter what price range the phone was in... so I guess it all really doesn't make a sonic difference. But yeah, some cables are more pleasing to the eye than others...

BTW, I once made a really overkill extension cable for my q-Jays (had no other material at hand).. the only thing it did was making them more uncomfortable, due to the weight and stiffness:

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  #50  
Old 01-25-2008, 10:32 PM
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lol, Nice dfkt... that looks very leet, if not awkward. Good for showing off! =p

I have to ask-- my paper filters on my x3i's are starting to fall into the housing after about 50 hours now, (I removed them with tweezers for fear of damage) and unlike you I don't have any phones to cannibalize for metal mesh filters, and all of my screeney-type materials on hand or in store seem to be quite wide (only 3 bars cross the nozzle vertically) to use for such a small orifice. My question; How important is a tight filter mesh, and what (dare I ask) should happen if goop or whatever gets into the phone?

PS: I have some plastic screen material on hand, and I just realized-- I could cross mesh by layering it so that each gap is closed with an X, epoxy it in place, cut, epoxy on to front of X3i's. Would that work? It would still leave quite a large gap compared to your mesh you pictured. I suppose I could just make 3-4 layers... LOL!

PSS: I could try cutting a small piece off the front of some of my other earbuds-- its basically hole-punched plastic. Its fairly thin, so I might just solder it apart (LOL!) for fear of cracking it otherwise. If only I had a diamond-coated dentists file.
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  #51  
Old 01-26-2008, 01:50 AM
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If you earwax got stuck onto the diaphragm, it will be very hard to remove. My suggestion will be, use those thin air conditioner replacement filter paper sold by 3M. Cut it smaller and glue it in with something that can be easily remove in the future, such as UHU glue.
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  #52  
Old 01-26-2008, 10:47 AM
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Yeah, I am just a little tentative to use paper again since I wanted to replace the old paper filters with metal mesh filters anyway, considering the reports of better treble. My favorite genre is ska, and while horns are distinct enough I think I would appreciate the treble boost.

I think I'll try to rip the plastic front off of the aforementioned earbuds first, I'll just have to cut it carefully!

I do appreciate the input though, I never thought of AC paper, which is surprising considering my dad programs commercial H-V-AC systems... It would be very easy to get.
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  #53  
Old 01-30-2008, 07:42 PM
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Alright, I got the plastic filters over the phones 3 days ago. They made a noticeable increase in SQ (Ska) which makes me feel very good-- I always questioned my ability to discern relatively small difference in SQ. Day after though, the cable on the right earphone pulled out of the casing, completely. So... I jacked it apart, desoldered, knotted, and resoldered the cable back on. Both have working sound on the correct channels as of 2 minutes ago.

However, with the knot in the cable, there is no way I can fit it the casing back together! I can only get the back right up to the 1st edge of the middle housing. I have tried with the knot at all possible angles in the case. Any suggestions? I cant seem to find my 2pt epoxy, otherwise I would scrap the knot and just epoxy them in VERY well. All I have is TackiGlue. (Actually works very well, dries fast, holds together immediately.)

Any help is appreciated!


PS: Okay, problem fixed. I kind of just pressed them together as hard as I possibly could bear. I made a depression in the cable, but they snapped together with a grating sound producing some shaved plastic! ^.^ All is well, however. They sound SO amazing! The glue is dried and I just started listening to them. Ahh.... I FINALLY have EXACTLY the setup I wanted. A 24gb Cowon D2 and a pair of nozzle filter/cable modded MylarOne X3i's. So. Frickin'. Awesome. Now I just need to make a ~100ohm resistor cable... *cannibalizes Cresyn phones for gold-plated jack*

Speaking of which, those Cresyn phones are horrendous. I cant stand them. They are quite tinny... I got a 5-pack of HP buds for $10 shipped on eBay, and those sound far better IMHO. However, the cable on those is about as cheesy and horrible as you can get. 5 feet long (!!!), inline volume control, very very cheesy nickel-plated jack, side-by-side cable design(not two cables wrapped in another larger cable as in most phones) etc...
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  #54  
Old 02-12-2008, 06:11 PM
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Hey, I am running into serious troubles as I recable these for a 2nd time. (The cable insulation pulled apart up next to the earphone) I used tacky glue (like superglue) the 1st time since I didn't have epoxy, and this time I got some 5-minute two-part stuff. Heres my problem.

When I rub the wires on the appropriate solder joints, (to make sure I have the right ones) I have a extremely hard time getting and sound out of them. I gave up on that and just soldered the wires on anyway... and I get no sound. I have spent the last two hours trying to get this a couple working joints on these things, and I am stuck. I need some advice as well as a couple answers.

First off, why are there three solder joints and only two connections on these things? There are left, right, and lower joints, with a red indicator on top. The lower joint is unused. Both are identical.

Second, could the bad connection be internal and not external? If so, does Jaben warranty such cases? I would have had to get another one twice already if I didn't do anything to them. *wishes X3i's had replaceable cables*

Actually, couldn't you make the cables replaceable if got a female 3/32 jack or whatever and hooked that up to the phones? I don't know how big that would be, but there is quite a dandy of free space in there.


P.S.: I missed the part about burning off the paint on the wires. I still want to add a couple 3/32 female jacks to it, and wire up a 2x mono to 1x stereo plug for it.
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  #55  
Old 02-12-2008, 08:43 PM
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I believe the 'left' and the 'right' joints is essentially the same joints (as from dfkt's original post, I see only a green and a red joints). The poor connection is most likely becasue you forgot to burn off the paint on the wires
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  #56  
Old 02-16-2008, 12:36 PM
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Yep, that was the reason, thanks ClieOS.

I actually missed your post, but I fixed them on the 12th. And the wire split again, last night. I insert and remove these things often, and there really is no way to take them out aside from pulling on the wire-- even done carefully, it does move around a little, and it is a ridiculously stiff wire... but I dont want to use a sticky rubber wire.

Anyone have any ideas? I cant keep fixing these. The wire keeps splitting after about 30 hours of use!

It doesn't look like RadioShack has any 3/32 mono females OR 3/32 angle males like I hoped. The big thing about that setup is I would be grabbing onto the jack (which can rotate freely) instead of the cord, so that would save some wear and tear. Also, if the cable did break, it would be possible to replace without tearing into the casing. Its significantly less beautiful now... :-(

I cant have Jaben send me a new pair every 4th day! Even if I could, I would only be able to use the product I paid for 1/4 of the time, if that. Shipping times stink!

Any suggestions are much appreciated!

PS: Is there any place to get that memory shrink-wrap stuff you find on high upper-end phones that hold the wire rigid in its form around the ear? That would prevent cable
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  #57  
Old 04-06-2008, 12:47 PM
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I just did the metal mesh filter mod to my X3i and it went quite well, it took maybe 10 minutes. The only difference is that I used cyanoacrylate glue instead of epoxy. I agree about the sound, the highs do sound clearer and I like that. At first I was not convinced about the sound quality of the X3i with the paper filters, but the metal mesh filter changed that. Thanks a lot for the suggestion. Is it me, or does the bass have a better attack (or punch) with the metal mesh filter?

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  #58  
Old 04-06-2008, 05:23 PM
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Nice work! Looks clean.

I actually thought the same about the bass when I swapped filters too.

For anyone who would like to use mesh filters on their phones, but doesn't have any others to cannibalize, check out this DX sku: http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.3324

Also, I heard a great suggestion to help fix the latest MylarOne cable dilemmas... that of gradual stiffening, and with that severe increase in microphonics. Armor All. =D
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File Type: jpg sku_3324_1.jpg (27.9 KB, 40 views)
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  #59  
Old 04-19-2008, 04:41 PM
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Another cable job...

Since the cable on my 1st-gen-Vibes became stiffer than a coat hanger and literally broke into pieces, I recabled them. Bought a pair of $4 earbuds from Dealextreme with colors matching the Vibes, they're as good as any other cable. The Vibes were a PITA to crack open, believe you me...

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  #60  
Old 05-09-2008, 02:03 AM
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dkft,
Just signed up here. I remember you helping me on the head-fi forums, anyway found this page while looking for information on recabling.

Long story short, I let my (current gen) vibes break in, and ended up being adequately happy with them sound quality wise... not the greatest, but not bad with some EQ work. In terms of cable length / plug configuration / weight however, they were absolutely perfect. Unfortunately I just got a call from my girlfriend saying I left them on her street last night and after (likely) being run over at least once, one earbud is busted and doesn't play anything.

I figured this might be the time to ditch the earbuds themselves (that are fairly average) and use the cables and plug (that I like) on different buds.

I've got some cheap buds here that I like the sound signature on, and I'm wondering if you had any thoughts on how to pull them apart? They come with sony-ericsson phones, and are very similar (form-wise) to the sony EX71/EX51, sound a little nicer perhaps. The cable config is garbage though, which is why I want to recable them with the vibe cables.



Any thoughts appreciated before I try and hack away at them myself. They're cheap, so I'm happy to use my current ones as an experiment on how to open them up + recable, and if successful, buy some new ones to perform the same procedure on.
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