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  #21  
Old 05-12-2007, 01:04 AM
aribro aribro is offline
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Default Additionally...

Additionally, it would be quite cool if someone figured out how to use the connector to control Sansa playback and volume. This would allow you to build your own IR (why not RF) controlled dock... Nonetheless, being a poor student the "official" made4Sansa accesories are somewhat out of reach.

Even further, by utilizing the connector control technique you could i.e. place the Sansa in your car and get iPod-like features by simulating a CD-changer (there are quita a few how-to documents for this) and then re-routing this info to Sansa.

Just some (nutty?) ideas
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  #22  
Old 05-12-2007, 08:43 AM
jac0b jac0b is offline
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I am still testing the audio out on the connector. The above was just my initial findings when I took apart the itrip connector. I am waiting for a ipod breakout connector because I think the ipod & sansa connector are similar if not the same. I will post any further developments.
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  #23  
Old 05-15-2007, 07:36 PM
jac0b jac0b is offline
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I have recieved the ipod breakout connector but when I hooked it up to the sansa and tested the pins nothing happened. Tried the itrip again in the car and headphones in the jack music came out of both. I am thinking piren is correct about a switch device. I think I will get a multi meter this weekend to test some more.

Anybody else have any ideas?
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  #24  
Old 05-18-2007, 09:11 AM
mike mike is offline
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I doubt that there is control needed to enable the line out at this connector. The hope that it is as simple as the IPod connection that requires no signaling, the signal is always there. A multimeter will not show the small fluctuations in a audio signal. Jac0b is very close to solving this, just needs to get his hands on an oscilloscope. Plug the griffin into the sansa, turn everything on and play a song. You know the Gnd, you can eaisly find the V+ pin(s). Now with the scope properly adjusted to measure the small fluctuations (1Vpp) you should be able to see the pins that are for R+ and L+ out. Set the balance one the sansa one way or another to isolate each.

Unless SanDisk wanted to make things needlessly complicated with some sort of switching to enable output, which they have no reason to even from an efficiency viewpoint, then we should be in business. A good way to verify this is to watch for square waves on the yellow wire, which if it isnt a power source, then its a data signal. A little bit of patience and a SCOPE and you could decipher the voodoo switching that might be going on.

A simple opamp and POT connected to the lineout is all thats needed to drive an aux input on your car radio. Dont try to drive anything without and amp.
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  #25  
Old 05-21-2007, 01:58 PM
jac0b jac0b is offline
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Would this oscilloscope work?
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Last edited by jac0b; 05-21-2007 at 02:07 PM.
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  #26  
Old 05-21-2007, 03:10 PM
mike mike is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jac0b View Post
Would this oscilloscope work?
I'd say so. I'd do this myself b/c i have scopes at work, but i dont yet have a sansa or griffin or brakeout connector (getting a e280 soon)!

1Vpp setting may be too limited, but might work. If not put it on 10Vpp and try sampling rates starting at 1ms. If you see what looks like audio signal you're good. If its just a bar jumping up and down you're sampling too fast. If you go out to the longest sampling rate and its just a flat bar then you've obviously found a fixed voltage.

If you dont want to buy a scope you could try just soldering wires to what you believe are the ground and audio R+ or L+ then hooking to the input of amplified speakers and see if you hear anything. That should also work, but test with your multimeter to make sure you're not sending a power line of 5V or something to your speakers.

Keep us posted!
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  #27  
Old 05-23-2007, 11:16 AM
jac0b jac0b is offline
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I know nothing about oscilloscopes, but I snooped around at work and found 2 that I could use.
Fluke 97
Tektronix 468
Which one should I use? What should it be set too?(Nevermind I saw the above post with the settings)
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  #28  
Old 05-28-2007, 11:59 AM
jac0b jac0b is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mike View Post
you could try just soldering wires to what you believe are the ground and audio R+ or L+ then hooking to the input of amplified speakers and see if you hear anything. That should also work, but test with your multimeter to make sure you're not sending a power line of 5V or something to your speakers.

Keep us posted!
I used the above method and found audio, but it was very low. It could been because I didn't solder my connections but I did find audio.

HURRAY

I will solder the connections and try it again to see if that will make a difference.
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  #29  
Old 05-28-2007, 07:39 PM
mike mike is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jac0b View Post
I used the above method and found audio, but it was very low. It could been because I didn't solder my connections but I did find audio.

HURRAY

I will solder the connections and try it again to see if that will make a difference.
Sweet! Yeah, the low audio is to be expected. It will need to be amplified alot. So was this with the griffin connected or with the breakout? I would try the same pins on the breakout if you havent already tried, in case the sansa is sending some switching signal to the sansa to enable output.

Oh BTW, i give no warranties that messing around with those pins could damage your sansa. I guess its always a possibility. So be careful!
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  #30  
Old 05-29-2007, 07:17 AM
jac0b jac0b is offline
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It was accomplished with the breakout connected. I am going to try it with the griffin to see if it gets any louder to test the switching device feature (if any).
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  #31  
Old 05-29-2007, 10:21 AM
mike mike is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jac0b View Post
It was accomplished with the breakout connected. I am going to try it with the griffin to see if it gets any louder to test the switching device feature (if any).

Thats good to hear. When you get the pins figured out post them here. I wonder if the lineout pins are the same as for the IPod. Looking at that russian site's pinout they appear to be pretty close. If the power and lineout are the same then people could use some of the non-controlling ipod devices for audio. I got my e280 and i'm probably going to buy an Ipod connector soon.
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  #32  
Old 05-29-2007, 10:28 AM
jac0b jac0b is offline
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Pins 3 & 4 are the ones I heard audio out of, which are exactly the same as the ipod pinout.
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  #33  
Old 06-04-2007, 05:04 PM
jac0b jac0b is offline
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Okay I hooked up the itrip to test the switching device theory, & I think the switching device is correct because it was louder when I had the the itrip plugged into the cigarette lighter. So I think maybe the picture of the below SMD resistor maybe the switch. Anybody else have any ideas?
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  #34  
Old 06-05-2007, 08:56 AM
mike mike is offline
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You're correct, that is a 47Kohm resistor. This input may be something similar to the IPod's device detector which works through a voltage drop. It may be telling the sansa that there is a dock connected. Since we are interested in making a similar device I would connect a 47Kohm resistor across those pins as well, but you must be powering the device like the griffin does.

As for the sound being louder this may be due to the fact that you're changing the impedance of your output device, or that powering the device (as with the griffin) raises the peak-to-peak output of the audio signals.
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  #35  
Old 06-06-2007, 12:28 PM
jac0b jac0b is offline
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What type of resistor do I look for?
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  #36  
Old 06-07-2007, 09:09 AM
mike mike is offline
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Radio shack should have these. Just the standard tolerance brown resistors should work fine. 47Kohm is a pretty standard value to have in stock. But be careful when applying power to pins on the sansa. Make sure you are attaching the correct voltage to the correct pins. Id hate to find out what happens if you dont.

I guess a safer alternative could be sacrificing the griffin if you dont plan on using it. You can use its power lines to power the sansa and harvest the audio coming out of the sansa. I guess that works if you want to use it for automotive applications.
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  #37  
Old 06-20-2007, 06:49 PM
aacarioca aacarioca is offline
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I'm really interested in all that work you guys are doing! I've recently bought myself a car charger for my Sansa which has the right connector in it (no usb). I was wondering whether I would be able to do the same stuff with it as you are trying to do with the Igriffin. As it is now, I have to connect two cables to the Sansa when I am in my car. It would be much better if I could use only one.
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  #38  
Old 07-03-2007, 08:38 AM
jac0b jac0b is offline
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I am getting rid of my sansa stuff because I moved to a different player but if you want my breakout connector just PM me and I will mail it to you.

Update:
I have already given away the breakout connector.
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  #39  
Old 09-12-2007, 05:25 PM
Fox9p3400 Fox9p3400 is offline
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Default connector part number

I think I found the connector/plug at mouser heres the address:
http://www.mouser.com/search/Product...656-DD1P030MA1
Check the datasheet, they look the same.
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  #40  
Old 11-10-2007, 11:27 AM
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cyberspyder cyberspyder is offline
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So which ones are for audio again? I wish to make a LOD for my amp
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