android
  #41  
Old 04-09-2009, 12:34 PM
DwayneR DwayneR is offline
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Apr 2009
Posts: 2
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Lolajoe View Post
I recently went through the exercise of trying the Cameron-Sino 1700 mAh battery, model CS-DA006SL. It seems 97% of all sellers are offering this one for the ZVM. I had the same experience (ZVM not recognizing the new battery) as described in thread 17663 titled "Charging problem after replacing battery... ".
I just went through a similar exercise - the CS-DA006SL battery simply does not work in either of my ZVM 30's.

I'm an electronics tech and have spent significant time working with similar batteries. It occurred to me that the problem was most likely with the battery monitoring card that is built into each battery pack. That card is what keeps track of the total amount of charge (and therefore remaining battery life) in the battery pack. The Zen simply talks to that card via the 3rd (white) wire on the battery connector.

My thought was that the ZEN can't communicate with the new batteries.

So: I swapped the battery monitoring card from my original battery into the new battery.

It worked! And: its relatively easy to do.

There is one little bit of a hassle - the tabs coming out of the new battery pack don't match the old - a bit of jumper wire fixed that. Then nothing worked: the battery monitor card was shut down because that's just what happens when the card is disconnected from the battery.

In other words, the battery monitoring card is always powered by the battery that its attached to. If the battery ever discharges to the point where the card won't work, the card shuts down to prevent permanent damage.

Its easy to fix: a quick touch of a jumper wire between the battery (-) terminal and the black output wire reset the card and brought it back to life.

I now have a working-perfectly brand-new battery in my ZVM <grin>.

If anyone else want to try this, there are a couple of things you should know.

Most Important: you are working directly with a Li-Poly battery. Do NOT allow the output leads to short to either themselves or to any part of the circuit board.

The original battery has white paper tape covering one end of the battery. The circuit board (I'm going to call it "PCB" from now on) is under that tape.

Peel the tape back from the side of the battery that has the printing on it. You will see the back-side of the PCB with two solder blobs: one on the right hand side, one towards the middle of the PCB. Those are the battery connections.

Unsolder the tabs from the PCB.

Now grab the new CS-DA006SL battery. With the battery facing label side up (wires coming from top Left-hand side of the battery), carefully run your fingernail left and right about 1/4" (5mm) from the top of the battery. You can feel the end of the battery pack - the label will dimple inwards.

Carefully use an Xacto knife to cut the label right at the end of the battery (what you felt with your fingernail). BE CAREFUL! Do NOT cut into the battery pack!

If you do it correctly, the top of the label will lift away and you will see the little tiny PCB at the left side of the cavity that is exposed when you lifted the label. Note that the rest of the empty space is filled with some fiber-board layers.

Notice that the tabs coming out from the battery pack do not match those of the original. But: that's easy to fix.

Unsolder the tabs from the PCB. Note that the right hand tab has a thin metal strip that runs from the PCB to the battery tab. Lift off the little strip of fiber board from on top of that metal strip and cut the metal strip off of the battery tab. Note: cut the strip, NOT the tab! The metal strip may extend past the end of the battery tab - cut that off as well.

The right-hand battery tab is 2 layers of metal thick because of that metal strip that was spot-welded to it. That's not a problem.

Now carefully form the left hand battery tab to lie right on top of the battery. Temporarily slide the little strip of fiber-board underneath the tab and solder a short piece of #24 wire to go from the tab towards the right hand tab.

BE CAREFUL!

Make sure the piece of wire is NOT long enough to reach the right hand tab!

Line up the PCB from the original Zen battery pack so that you can see where to bend the piece of wire to match up with the solder pad in the middle of the PCB. Bend it outwards (so that it is pointing straight out from the pack.

Now take that thin strip of fiber-board and lay it ON TOP OF the wire. Lay the PCB on top of the fiber-board and bend the right-hand tab so that it lays on top of the solder pad - solder it. Now take the piece of wire sticking out from underneath the fiber-board, bend it so that it lays on top of its solder pad, solder.

Press everything down firmly. The total thickness should be a little less than the battery thickness.

Now you have to reset the computer chip on the PCB. If you were to connect this battery to your ZVM right now, it would be dead. That's because the PCB was disconnected from its power source. The little computer chip on the PCB automatically powers up with the card disabled.

Resetting the card is easy. Look carefully on the back-side of the PCB where the wires come off. There are 3 little gold-colored pads that correspond with the wires. They are labeled: Red is P+, White is HDQ, Black is P-.

What you have to do is use a jumper wire to touch from the gold pad marked P- (or the black wire) to the right-hand battery terminal. Just a short touch is all that it takes.

Now you can connect the battery pack to the ZMV to make sure that it works.

Assuming that it works correctly, fold the label that you had cut back over the PCB and use a piece of tape to keep it closed.

Done! Install into the ZVM as normal and enjoy!

Note: it took MUCH longer to write this than to actually do it. Total time to swap the PCB from one battery pack to the other was only a few minutes.

Hope this helps someone!

dwayne

Last edited by DwayneR; 04-24-2009 at 12:31 PM.
Reply With Quote

Advertisement [Remove Advertisement]

  #42  
Old 04-10-2009, 12:44 AM
Raizio Raizio is offline
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Dec 2008
Posts: 20
Default

i might actually try this as i do have that one laying around and also an old battery pack.

thanks alot! you just mightve revived my old zvm!
Reply With Quote

  #43  
Old 04-13-2009, 09:46 PM
Oniran Oniran is offline
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Apr 2009
Posts: 1
Default

Hi, I've followed this thread and it's been very helpful. I was wondering though how much more battery life the 1700 mAh's had compared to the OE's 1250 and the other 1400s. I've recently decided to resurrect my ZVM and wanted to know if it was worth the headaches that some members have mentioned. My Zen's firmware is 1.30.02 at the moment if that matters.
Reply With Quote

  #44  
Old 04-24-2009, 12:30 PM
DwayneR DwayneR is offline
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Apr 2009
Posts: 2
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Oniran View Post
I was wondering though how much more battery life the 1700 mAh's had compared to the OE's 1250 and the other 1400s.
I don't have a good feel for that yet because I haven't run the battery flat yet.

My longest run time so far was perhaps 6 hours - the battery showed somewhere between 3/4 and 2/3 life still remaining.

The new 1700 mAh batteries are working great!

dwayne
Reply With Quote

  #45  
Old 04-28-2009, 01:58 AM
godbes godbes is offline
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Apr 2009
Posts: 5
Default

Hey DwayneR,

really good work. You say you are an electronics tech...

Mhhhhh, I have a 60 GB fat model and Iīll change the HD to a new 80 gb Toshiba. So Iīll get about 3mm more space, without rubber some more..(I think the old 60 GB are 2 platter, the new drives are one platter hdīs)....whatīs about the idea to put two 1400mah batteries in it? How to connect or combine the wires? Will the ZVM talk to 2 monitoring cards? I donīt think so... some way to make one "big" batterie?

DwayneR, for me (german) your guide to swap the PCB is not easy to "translate", to know exactly what you mean.
You didnīt make some Fotos or a Video of the swap? It would be very helpful. To work directly with a Li-Poly battery could be dangerous, and Iīm little unsure

Thanks
Godbes

Last edited by godbes; 04-29-2009 at 07:44 AM.
Reply With Quote

  #46  
Old 04-29-2009, 05:12 AM
mezard mezard is offline
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Apr 2009
Posts: 1
Talking success

Firmware downgrade really worked! Thanks a lot!
Pawel
Warsaw, Poland
Reply With Quote

  #47  
Old 05-20-2009, 01:26 PM
RTC_22 RTC_22 is offline
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Apr 2009
Posts: 7
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by thankyousam View Post
To add my findings. I had had problems with 2 Cameron Sino 1700mAh batteries not accpeting a charge/not working with my ZVM.

Following the above advice I got a 1400mAh battery from eBay which was advertised with 2 model numbers: LPCS285385 and BA20603R79914. These are the model numbers of the first two listed above! When it arrived it was a Cameron Sino battery and had both those numbers printed on it, but has worked without any problems.
It seems that my zen does not charge via USB. What could be the reason?

Regards,
RTC
Reply With Quote

  #48  
Old 05-20-2009, 08:23 PM
anubis04 anubis04 is offline
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2008
Posts: 27
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by RTC_22 View Post
It seems that my zen does not charge via USB. What could be the reason?

Regards,
RTC
Try charging with the AC charger first.
Reply With Quote

  #49  
Old 05-26-2009, 02:40 AM
godbes godbes is offline
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Apr 2009
Posts: 5
Default

Hi,

the last weekīs I studied the „how to combine Li-Pol batteries“ in the net. Hereīs the extract.
<O</O
I modified my 60gb fatty ZVM (hight: 2,2cm) to 120gb and fitted in a 2800mah (2x1400) Li-Pol battery!! It works great. I expect 30 hourīs (using hold to shut down display)… .
<O</O
Without the hdd-rubber thereīs the extra space you need. I know about the risks using no hdd- rubber (shock-sensibility). Instead I use a soft case for my ZVM. If you think itīs do risky, use a 80 gb hdd (with rubber). The height of the 80gb hdd is 5mm, of the 120gb 8mm. Using the 80gb will give you 3mm more space…enough to use the rubber.
<O</O
By the way, in future the 1.8 ssdīs will become cheaper and a 124gb ssd without case will be not higher than 5mm… ;-) NO-shock sensibility!!! Then I will add a third 1400mah Li-Pol battery – 4200 mah in the fatty 60gb ZVM. In the slim ZVM 2800mah will be possible.
<O</O
Ok, combining the batterieīs: It requires that you are able to handle soldering iron. If you have no experience in working with LI-POL batteries, LIKE ME, just work slow, take your time and just look and work carefully. Itīs really easy.
<O</O
One cell of LI-Pol batterie has alwayīs 3,7 Volt. If you put 2 together in a row (- to +) you will get 7,4 V, three in a row 11,1 V and so on… We are going to combine the cellīs parallel, NOT in a row. So we put together the negative terminals and the positive terminals of the batteries . What happens is that we add the capacities (not the voltage). If you combine two 1400 mah cells parallel, you will get 2800 mah. If you combine a 1400 and a 1700 you get 3100 mah…at 3,7 Volt. YOU CAN USE ANY LI-POL CELL YOU WANT. You can use cells from modelmaking e.g.. You only have to attend the size, the dimensions. It has to fit in the ZVM.
<O</O
The thing that makeīs the battery compatible with the ZVM is not the battery itself. Thatīs a standard part with 3,7 Volt. Itīs only the little pcm battery card (DwaneR described it obove) that controlls the battery and communicates with the ZVM. You can use the original pcm card from the original batterie or the card from the 1400mah CS- battery. Both work. You only have to disamble the original battery, uncover the pcm card (like DwaneR described) and unsolder the card with the soldering iron.
<O</O
Ok, you have seperated the pcm card.
<O</O
Thereīs one thing that ist VERY importand, in the moment when you combine the too minus terminals and the two + terminals of the batteries: The voltage of the two batteries MUST be the same!!! You will ask: The same? I think both are at 3,7 V? Not really. A full LI-Ion battery has about 4,1 Volt and a low battery has about 3,8 Volt. This is what the pcm battery card controlls: The voltage levels. If the level falls under a specific value the ZVM sais: battery low. By charging, if the voltage reaches a value, the ZVM stopps the charging.
<O</O
If one of the combined batteries has a higher voltage…this one will charge the batterie with the lower voltage! In this case, in the moment of combining, there will flow a VERY high power and the batteries will get very hot, damage, probably burn. So check out the voltage with a measurement device. If itīs not the same…there is a trick: combine the minus terminals (be carefull that the + terminals could not get short). Combine the + terminals not directly…put a resistor between. I donīt know what size of resistor. Ask an elektrican. Maybe someone here can help. My batteries had the same voltage: 3,79 V, both were new.
<O</O
Ok, we are at the point, that we have unsoldered the pcm card from the original batterie (or the 1400 mah CS model).
And we have two "naked" batteries with the same voltage, without pcm cards.
In my case, I brought two 1400mah CS batteries, unsoldered both pcm cardīs. (I put off all paper from the batteries). But they are expensive (60 Euro for 2). In future I will buy standard LIPOL batteries, used in model making and add the original pcm battery card.
<O</O
Than I put the batteries togehter with double faced adhesive tape: - batterie terminal behind – terminal and + terminal behind + terminal. Than I add the pcm card to the front battery and soldered all the - terminals to the – terminal of the card and then all the + batterie terminals to the + terminal of the card with the soldering iron. Than I have reactivated the card like dwaneR described, jumper wire between black cable and – terminal, short touch…and all worked. At last I isolated all with adhesive tape…. Big battery is born. Same way when you will combine 3 batteries.
<O</O
There is one little problem: First you solder the – terminals of the batteries. After this, when you solder the + terminals of the batteries to the +terminal of the pcm card, the soldering tin will be elektrified and collects at the end of the pcm +terminal. It could be, that you are not able to cover the + terminal of the back battery with soldering tin. In this case you are not able to fix the + terminal of the back battery accurately. In this case, add jumper wire to the + terminal of the back battery and fix the other end of the wire, where the soldering tin collects on the pcm card.
<O</O
Like DwaneR wrote…itīs really easy, it only readīs complicated. Iīm german and not really trained writing english.
<O</O
I described the way best knowing. But you do this in your own responsibility!
<O</O
<O</O
I whish you good work.<O</O
<O</O

<O</O
Reply With Quote

  #50  
Old 06-02-2009, 01:27 PM
RTC_22 RTC_22 is offline
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Apr 2009
Posts: 7
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by anubis04 View Post
Try charging with the AC charger first.
So finally I bought the charger and it worked. But charging via USB did not work yet although I upgraded firmware to 1.41.01.
Any idea?

Thanks and regards,
RTC
Reply With Quote

  #51  
Old 07-18-2009, 06:27 AM
Gaarder Gaarder is offline
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2009
Posts: 1
Default

First of all I would like to thank everybody here and thank for the great Infos!

But Iīm stupid. I have bought the CS-DA006SL and throw the old, original to the green waste. After that I read that I must downgrade to the old firmware 1.41 (30GB). Now I have a big problem. :-(

Is there ANY solution to get the old firmware to the ZVM with the CS-DA006SL? At this time I canīt charge the new battery.

Thank you for your help!
Reply With Quote

  #52  
Old 07-21-2009, 11:29 PM
trippy123 trippy123 is offline
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2009
Posts: 9
Default

Hey all - same deal here got the 60gig zen vision m slim.

So is there a battery we can get that works as a replacement?

I got the CS-DA006SL 1700mAh and yep no go - and you can't use the old firmware on the 60gig so what's the solution?

Bit strange they cater for the 30gig, but not the 60gig.
Reply With Quote

  #53  
Old 08-13-2009, 01:59 PM
VinceNL VinceNL is offline
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2009
Posts: 2
Default

Ah yeah, I have the same problem. I have bought the CS-DA006SL and can't seem to downgrade to the old firmware 1.41.01, since the firmware-updater exe says the battery power is too low, even when it's on the AC adapter.

My idea was to update the firmware with a hacked updater, but for that I need the nk.bin file of firmware 1.41.01, and I don't have that :S Anybody? It can be copied from C:\CtJbFW\newbin when the upgrade is in progress, but since I can't start the upgrade, I'm stuck :S
Reply With Quote

  #54  
Old 08-20-2009, 06:27 PM
trippy123 trippy123 is offline
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2009
Posts: 9
Default

UPDATE: OK I thought I should update on my battery replacemant.

I bought the CS-CRT05SL (Creative Zen Vision M 30GB) battery off ebay for about $20 delivered. Replaced and BINGO! It started to recharge - and I let it charge for awhile - and it would only charge to 81% !

To fix that I simply unplugged the wall charger and used the USB to charge a bit - and it still registered 81% - then I disconnected after leaving it in for about 3 hours - then unplugged - replugged - ZOOM! 100%!

So there is a replacement that works for your 60 GIG Zen Vision M - but boy do they make it difficult to find. Thanks for all the help guys
Reply With Quote

  #55  
Old 10-04-2009, 10:41 AM
jevries jevries is offline
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2008
Posts: 4
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by DwayneR View Post
I just went through a similar exercise - the CS-DA006SL battery simply does not work in either of my ZVM 30's.

I'm an electronics tech and have spent significant time working with similar batteries. It occurred to me that the problem was most likely with the battery monitoring card that is built into each battery pack. That card is what keeps track of the total amount of charge (and therefore remaining battery life) in the battery pack. The Zen simply talks to that card via the 3rd (white) wire on the battery connector.

My thought was that the ZEN can't communicate with the new batteries.

So: I swapped the battery monitoring card from my original battery into the new battery.

It worked! And: its relatively easy to do.

There is one little bit of a hassle - the tabs coming out of the new battery pack don't match the old - a bit of jumper wire fixed that. Then nothing worked: the battery monitor card was shut down because that's just what happens when the card is disconnected from the battery.

In other words, the battery monitoring card is always powered by the battery that its attached to. If the battery ever discharges to the point where the card won't work, the card shuts down to prevent permanent damage.

Its easy to fix: a quick touch of a jumper wire between the battery (-) terminal and the black output wire reset the card and brought it back to life.

I now have a working-perfectly brand-new battery in my ZVM <GRIN>.

If anyone else want to try this, there are a couple of things you should know.

Most Important: you are working directly with a Li-Poly battery. Do NOT allow the output leads to short to either themselves or to any part of the circuit board.

The original battery has white paper tape covering one end of the battery. The circuit board (I'm going to call it "PCB" from now on) is under that tape.

Peel the tape back from the side of the battery that has the printing on it. You will see the back-side of the PCB with two solder blobs: one on the right hand side, one towards the middle of the PCB. Those are the battery connections.

Unsolder the tabs from the PCB.

Now grab the new CS-DA006SL battery. With the battery facing label side up (wires coming from top Left-hand side of the battery), carefully run your fingernail left and right about 1/4" (5mm) from the top of the battery. You can feel the end of the battery pack - the label will dimple inwards.

Carefully use an Xacto knife to cut the label right at the end of the battery (what you felt with your fingernail). BE CAREFUL! Do NOT cut into the battery pack!

If you do it correctly, the top of the label will lift away and you will see the little tiny PCB at the left side of the cavity that is exposed when you lifted the label. Note that the rest of the empty space is filled with some fiber-board layers.

Notice that the tabs coming out from the battery pack do not match those of the original. But: that's easy to fix.

Unsolder the tabs from the PCB. Note that the right hand tab has a thin metal strip that runs from the PCB to the battery tab. Lift off the little strip of fiber board from on top of that metal strip and cut the metal strip off of the battery tab. Note: cut the strip, NOT the tab! The metal strip may extend past the end of the battery tab - cut that off as well.

The right-hand battery tab is 2 layers of metal thick because of that metal strip that was spot-welded to it. That's not a problem.

Now carefully form the left hand battery tab to lie right on top of the battery. Temporarily slide the little strip of fiber-board underneath the tab and solder a short piece of #24 wire to go from the tab towards the right hand tab.

BE CAREFUL!

Make sure the piece of wire is NOT long enough to reach the right hand tab!

Line up the PCB from the original Zen battery pack so that you can see where to bend the piece of wire to match up with the solder pad in the middle of the PCB. Bend it outwards (so that it is pointing straight out from the pack.

Now take that thin strip of fiber-board and lay it ON TOP OF the wire. Lay the PCB on top of the fiber-board and bend the right-hand tab so that it lays on top of the solder pad - solder it. Now take the piece of wire sticking out from underneath the fiber-board, bend it so that it lays on top of its solder pad, solder.

Press everything down firmly. The total thickness should be a little less than the battery thickness.

Now you have to reset the computer chip on the PCB. If you were to connect this battery to your ZVM right now, it would be dead. That's because the PCB was disconnected from its power source. The little computer chip on the PCB automatically powers up with the card disabled.

Resetting the card is easy. Look carefully on the back-side of the PCB where the wires come off. There are 3 little gold-colored pads that correspond with the wires. They are labeled: Red is P+, White is HDQ, Black is P-.

What you have to do is use a jumper wire to touch from the gold pad marked P- (or the black wire) to the right-hand battery terminal. Just a short touch is all that it takes.

Now you can connect the battery pack to the ZMV to make sure that it works.

Assuming that it works correctly, fold the label that you had cut back over the PCB and use a piece of tape to keep it closed.

Done! Install into the ZVM as normal and enjoy!

Note: it took MUCH longer to write this than to actually do it. Total time to swap the PCB from one battery pack to the other was only a few minutes.

Hope this helps someone!

dwayne

I'm pretty handy with a soldering iron but does this mod work with the 60GB version? I've many problems trying to find a battery that works still no luck.
Also why not try the reset trick first on the replacement battery before swapping the pcb? I'm curious if that would be the trick to get these batteries going.

Last edited by jevries; 10-04-2009 at 11:06 AM.
Reply With Quote

  #56  
Old 12-06-2009, 04:56 PM
jonb jonb is offline
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Dec 2009
Posts: 1
Default

I'm not pretty handy with a soldering iron, and just did DwayneR's trick with the 60 GB fat model, Firmware 1.21.02. Tried the reset trick prior and it didn't work. Charging the unit only caused the blue LED under the power switch to flash but never appeared to charge enough to work. Upon plugging in the battery with the swapped PCB, the unit powered on and started playing where I left off before pulling the battery. Charging off USB now

edit: Thanks DwayneR, may try the double-battery trick when upgrading the HDD later.
Reply With Quote

  #57  
Old 12-11-2009, 10:57 AM
darabo darabo is offline
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Dec 2009
Posts: 1
Default

I have a 60GB Zen Vision M and I recently bought a 1700mA battery from an eBay seller

http://cgi.ebay.com/1700mA-Battery-f...item2ea85008fe

I replaced the battery and I let it charge however about an hour into charging the charge symbol vanishes and when I turn on the player, while it is connected to the AC adapter, it say it is fully charged however when I take off the charger then it says "Low Battery". Also it will not charge when I plug it to the computer. I don't know if it is because I have the Firmware 1.21.02 (for the 60GB) or what and I do not know what to do.

What should I do?

Any help would be wonderful.
Reply With Quote

  #58  
Old 01-02-2010, 08:09 AM
mariod84 mariod84 is offline
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2010
Posts: 1
Default

Hi All,
i would buy a new battery for my ZVM 30gb with last firmware (1.62) and i have found this
http://www.batteryupgrade.com/...
It's ok this battery? Will it work without any problem?

And for you these others it's the same?
http://cgi.ebay.com/1400mA-Battery-for-Creative-Zen-Vision-M....

Thank's.

P.S. Sorry for my english.

Last edited by mariod84; 01-02-2010 at 09:57 AM.
Reply With Quote

  #59  
Old 02-20-2010, 05:34 AM
anubis04 anubis04 is offline
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2008
Posts: 27
Default

ZVM Brothers,
I bought a CS-CRTO5SL which is a 1400mAh 3.7v from here: http://www.batteriesonthego.com/CS-C...ry-95p2894.htm for $AUD 25.00 and this battery works fine with firmware 1.62.02. I installed the new 1400mAh and charged today and then upgraded the firmware from 1.41 (as I had a 1700mAh battery installed) to 1.62.02 and no probs. mario84 - Yes, if my 1400mAh works, then that battery should work with your ZVM also. Do a few google or ebay searches though as prices do vary. Being in Australia, the $AUD is stronger against the $USD, so cheaper for me to buy from US.
Reply With Quote

  #60  
Old 04-23-2010, 01:10 PM
waigy waigy is offline
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Apr 2010
Posts: 11
Default

Here's my symptoms

Bought the zen with a dead battery, I could sometimes get it to power up with either my car charger (dont have an ac charger) or my usb lead.
Everything works fine, music videos etc.
With the original battery when I disconnected the charger or usb it went dead instantly.
Just bought a CS-DA006SL got the same symptoms, used the above DwayneR battery mod, now when I disconnect the charger or usb it shows a low battery logo.
I've tried leaving both the charger and usb connected for a lot of hours with no difference to the charge.
The battery voltage reads 4.07 volts (connected or not connected).
With the charger connected I can only power the unit up by shorting the solder connections on the board next to the battery connector.
Once it is powered up I can switch the unit off and on no problem (with the charger attached), but as soon as I hit the reset button to try recovery mode it goes dead.
I then have to short the solder connections to get it to power up again.
If I try the firmware upgrade via usb it says there's not enough battery power.
Current firmware is 1.40.02.
Any suggestions as I'm close to giving it a float test in my nearest river.
Reply With Quote

Reply

Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off

Forum Jump



All times are GMT -5. The time now is 10:48 PM.