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  #21  
Old 12-02-2009, 08:50 AM
saratoga saratoga is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by m_k View Post
Does anyone know if somebody has noodled out a Line INPUT method for the Sansa 30 pin connector?
So far no one has. Theres a company that makes break out boards that let you easily get to all Fuze dock pins. I was thinking about getting one eventually and flipping on the Fuze's ADC channels one by one and seeing if it can hear any of the dock pins. But its pretty far down my todo list since I don't really do any recording.

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Originally Posted by m_k View Post
I'd also like to know if anyone has figured out the protocols for the control signal handling via the cable port. This is something we DO know for certain to exist, a fact made clear to me the first time I dropped my c200 onto my Timex clock radio and found I could control the Sansa via the Timex IR remote control.
As far as I'm aware, it has never been documented.

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Originally Posted by m_k View Post
If there is NOT physical Line-IN hardware support via the connector, then perhaps someone with the right skill set could figure out how to cheat our way in (cut traces, solder in jumpers, etc.)?
If the line in isn't connected it won't be possible to do that.
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  #22  
Old 12-03-2009, 01:17 AM
berre berre is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Andreas View Post
Yes. The pinout is shown in the first post. If you can't find out what to do from the info provided here, you shouldn't attempt this because that means you don't have the DIY knowledge needed to do this safely and might end up wireing 5V to audio. Soldering 30 pin connectors is hard enough to do properly so that if you don't have enough experience/knowledge to know WHAT to do without someone telling you, you definitely do't have enough experience to know HOW to do it.
ok this pinout picture wasn't visible for me which explains a lot... apparently there are some other pictures as well which I couldn't see... our webserver here at work is blocking some of them, very strange

anyhow I had a look at this at home and indeed I see the pinout picture which answers my question, my apologies

and don't worry about my DIY knowledge, I got that covered

cheers
B
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  #23  
Old 12-04-2009, 12:07 PM
Weaves Weaves is offline
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Dumb Question,

Where do I get the original cable from if I want to keep mine intact? All I found on ebay was teh cheap replacement ones (non-oem)
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  #24  
Old 03-06-2010, 03:47 PM
Diablo2k Diablo2k is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Weaves View Post
Dumb Question,

Where do I get the original cable from if I want to keep mine intact? All I found on ebay was teh cheap replacement ones (non-oem)
Here s an answer I got in another thread.
Quote:
Originally Posted by eboyer93 View Post
Here is where you can get another cable for the Fuze: http://shop.sandisk.com/DRHM/servlet...oryID=11449200

There 10$
I was wondering if the radio would still work or not, I know alot of radios that use the headphones as an antenna. I dont have my Fuze yet so I dont know if the radio works without the headphones being plugged in.
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  #25  
Old 03-08-2010, 08:09 AM
Spike8585 Spike8585 is offline
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Default Headroom Portable Micro Amp

Quote:
Not sure which version of diyLOD you should use? In short, use diyLOD v1 if your amp has input DC filters (i.e. capacitive coupling / AC coupling). Use diyLOD v2 if your amp doesn't have them (or when you can't be sure). See the 2nd to last section on post #2 for more detail.
I am awaiting the delivery of a Headroom Portable Micro Amp, and I am considering buying Fuze, as everybody serious about portable audio seem to say the fuze is the best.

I wrote Headroom to see if their amp has input DC filters or not, but I would assume they might, as their guts look pretty sophisticated compared to the many 5-10 component amps out there.

So, my question is, IF the amp has that filter, will V.2 w/ caps make any difference at all in sound quality? Or is it just redundant?
I do not plan to use the dock to output to anything other than that amp.

Thanks!
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  #26  
Old 03-08-2010, 12:49 PM
Spike8585 Spike8585 is offline
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Default Nevermind!

Ok, so I heard back from Headroom, and the Micro does not have the input filter caps, so V2 it is.

Does anyone know if you can use any surface mount caps (obviously adding your own leads)? Like tantalum caps? or something smaller like Wimas?
Would that change the SQ at all.
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  #27  
Old 03-08-2010, 01:01 PM
saratoga saratoga is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Spike8585 View Post
I am awaiting the delivery of a Headroom Portable Micro Amp, and I am considering buying Fuze, as everybody serious about portable audio seem to say the fuze is the best.
Unless you're using some very specific headphones, theres really no point in using an amp with the Fuze via line out. The whole reason people say the fuze is so good is because the built in amp's performance is so good. Adding an amp sort of defeats the purpose.
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  #28  
Old 03-08-2010, 01:26 PM
Spike8585 Spike8585 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by saratoga View Post
Unless you're using some very specific headphones, theres really no point in using an amp with the Fuze via line out. The whole reason people say the fuze is so good is because the built in amp's performance is so good. Adding an amp sort of defeats the purpose.
Well, I am. I am using the Sennheiser HD-650's. The Sansa amp will not drive them very well, as they are 300Ohm cans. Therefore I just want a line out to go to my Headroom Portable Micro Amp, then to the senns.
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  #29  
Old 03-08-2010, 01:43 PM
saratoga saratoga is offline
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Ah that might be worth it. I would still try the headphone jack first though. If you can get enough volume through it for your tastes, you probably don't need to bother with the amp.
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  #30  
Old 08-18-2010, 05:37 PM
Nerdy3.14159265 Nerdy3.14159265 is offline
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I wanted to ask a question about this, to make sure I have it straight in my head. Can I keep the USB power hooked up and use the LO?

My plan is to do the following:

1. Jump pin 7 and 22
2. Leave the USB power cables hooked up in there places
3. Use the USB data cables to hook into the Left and Right LO pins (27 & 28)
4. Where ever I want the sound to come out I, slice open the cable
5. Pull out the ex-USB data cables and attach them to the jack
6. Splice into the USB ground for the ground connection on the jack

I'm planning on using this to set up a dock for my car. I'm using a cassette adapter and I want to be able to hook it up to that and charge at the same time with just one cable. I figure it's safer than having a bunch of cables running out of the Fuze in different directions because then it's more likely one gets bumped and it goes flying.

I may actually buy a dock to hold the Fuze and figure out how to put everything inside of it so I have no wires out to get pulled.
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  #31  
Old 08-22-2010, 01:41 PM
Nerdy3.14159265 Nerdy3.14159265 is offline
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Anyone?
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  #32  
Old 08-29-2010, 09:19 PM
ghettocruiser ghettocruiser is offline
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Registered just to say this is what I plan to try.

Im thinking about running the charge through the normal two outside USB pins. Then using the two inside connectors and USB shield for audio.

Im also thinking about splitting the cable. Leaving the USB plug on the end for charging, but putting an audio connector split off for connection in the car. So I can use a car charger with the USB end, and my line in on my stereo on the other end.

Its working in my head anyway hahaha. My goal is to build an integrated dock into my console of my car. But at this point...Im almost thinking I can buy the griffin dock and cut it up and mount that in the console... Probably going to try that first as its only 15 bucks or something.

J.

EDIT: On second thought..maybe that wont work. The USB shielding isnt meant for that sort of thing I dont think. So you'd be left one wire short. At this point, Im thinking about buying an empty connector, using a USB cable for power/charging, then use a separage audio cable for the LINE OUT. Just patch it all into one piece of sheathing, and wire it into the new connector. That might be the easiest way to go I guess.

I was hoping to avoid having external capacitors involved, but its looking like Ill need them for this to work well.

EDIT 2: Looks like I had to do some more digging. There is duscussion about a charge+LOD cable over on head-fi. Sounds like you leave the original charge cable the same, and just add the jumper between 7 & 22, then solder in your own line out wires for your connector. Sounds easy enough.

Last edited by ghettocruiser; 08-30-2010 at 10:39 AM.
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  #33  
Old 09-09-2010, 08:03 PM
Nerdy3.14159265 Nerdy3.14159265 is offline
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Ghettocruiser, what did you think about my plan that I posted? We both want a car dock.
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  #34  
Old 09-15-2010, 08:51 AM
ghettocruiser ghettocruiser is offline
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Sorry man... I completely forgot to check this thread.

Your plan sounded very similar to what I was thinking. I didnt think I could use the USB shielding/ground for the audio ground. But I guess that wouldnt hurt anything... Im just not sure.

So in my mind, I was missing a wire (audio ground).

But honestly, I havent messed with it yet. Im thinking about just getting that griffin dock just to get me up and running. And maybe disecting that and using the parts to integrate it somehow.

The issue I have with the dock is, with as little as the Sansa screen is, it might be hard to see it with it stationary. To change songs or playlists or whatever. I feel like having a cable and just putting the player in the center console or in a storage tray would be easier. I have to give it some more thought really. For as cheap as those docks are, Ill probalby grab one just for the heck of it. I can always use it inside if I dont use it in the car.

J.
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  #35  
Old 09-24-2010, 10:28 AM
ghettocruiser ghettocruiser is offline
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Still havent built a cable yet. But... I think Im going to leave a standard cable the way it is. Then jumper the two pins. Then add a SECOND audio cable into the plug end. Instead of trying to use the USB ground and data for audio.

Like this..





Im not sure if building a cable without caps will work good enough for me...but Im willing to try it. I dont want caps sticking out from the plug. This is going into a car headunit...through a true audio input. So Im hoping its satisfactory. Its not an audiophile set up anyway. Just a stock Jetta Monsoon system.

J.
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  #36  
Old 02-12-2011, 09:02 AM
i_djoel2000 i_djoel2000 is offline
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just wanna ask quick question. will this fuze LOD v2 work with rockboxed fuze?
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  #37  
Old 02-12-2011, 09:28 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by i_djoel2000 View Post
just wanna ask quick question. will this fuze LOD v2 work with rockboxed fuze?
It will only work with the v1 Fuzes, as audio-out via the dock port currently isn't functional (in Rockbox) in the v2 models.
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  #38  
Old 02-12-2011, 10:04 AM
i_djoel2000 i_djoel2000 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by epithetless View Post
It will only work with the v1 Fuzes, as audio-out via the dock port currently isn't functional (in Rockbox) in the v2 models.
so if i have fuze v2, the line out will only available in original firmware?
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  #39  
Old 02-12-2011, 10:06 AM
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WalkGood WalkGood is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by i_djoel2000 View Post
so if i have fuze v2, the line out will only available in original firmware?
Correct, until they enable audio-out via the dock port.
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  #40  
Old 02-14-2011, 10:37 PM
i_djoel2000 i_djoel2000 is offline
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one more thing..why put capacitor there? is the dc offset via LOD is really that high? if it is only 1-5mV, i think no capacitor will be needed..
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